LC-MS/MS Determination of 5 Palmitoyl Polypeptides in Skin-Care Cosmetics
摘 要
护肤类化妆品样品用含0.1 mol·L-1乙酸铵的95%(体积分数)甲醇溶液提取,提取液经滤膜过滤后,采用液相色谱-串联质谱法测定滤液中5种棕榈酰多肽的含量。以LIChrospher® 60RP-select B色谱柱为固定相,以不同体积比的含0.3%(体积分数)乙酸的50 mmol·L-1乙酸铵溶液和乙腈的混合液为流动相进行梯度洗脱,串联质谱分析中采用电喷雾离子源正、负离子模式和选择反应监测模式。5种棕榈酰多肽的质量浓度均在2.0~200.0 μg·L-1内与其对应的峰面积呈线性关系,测定下限(10S/N)均为2.0 μg·L-1。以空白样品为基体进行加标回收试验,所得回收率为89.4%~111%,测定值的相对标准偏差(n=6)为1.1%~10%。
Abstract
The sample of skin-care cosmetic was extracted with 95% (volume fraction) methanol solution containing 0.1 mol·L-1 ammonium acetate, and then the extract was filtered on filter membrane. LC-MS/MS was applied to the determination of 5 palmitoyl polypeptides in the filtrate. LIChrospher® 60RP-select B chromatographic column was used as stationary phase, and the mixture of 50 mmol·L-1 ammonium acetate solution containing 0.3% (volume fraction) acetic acid and acetonitrile mixed in different ratios was used as mobile phase in gradient elution. ESI+, ESI- and selected reaction monitor mode were adopted in MS/MS. Linear relationships between values of peak area and mass concentration of 5 palmitoyl polypeptides were kept in the same range of 2.0-200.0 μg·L-1, with the same lower limits of determination (10S/N) of 2.0 μg·L-1. On the base of blank sample, test for recovery was made by standard addition method; values of recovery found were in the range of 89.4%-111%, with RSDs (n=6) of determined values in the range of 1.1%-10%.
中图分类号 O657.63 DOI 10.11973/lhjy-hx202102008
所属栏目 工作简报
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收稿日期 2020/1/14
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备注陈意光,高级工程师,博士,研究方向为色谱、质谱分析,32093412@qq.com
引用该论文: CHEN Yiguang,TAN Jianhua,WANG Jicai,XIA Zemin. LC-MS/MS Determination of 5 Palmitoyl Polypeptides in Skin-Care Cosmetics[J]. Physical Testing and Chemical Analysis part B:Chemical Analysis, 2021, 57(2): 140~145
陈意光,谭建华,王继才,夏泽敏. 液相色谱-串联质谱法测定护肤类化妆品中5种棕榈酰多肽[J]. 理化检验-化学分册, 2021, 57(2): 140~145
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【4】杜登学,王姗姗,周磊.肽类在化妆品中的应用[J].山东轻工业学院学报(自然科学版), 2012(1):35-39.
【5】FIELDS K, FALLA T J, RODAN K, et al. Bioactive peptides: Signaling the future[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2009,8(1):8-13.
【6】GOROUHI F, MAIBACH H I. Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2009,31(5):327-345.
【7】PICKART L, VASQUEZ-SOLTERO J M, MARGOLINA A. The human tripeptide GHK-Cu in prevention of oxidative stress and degenerative conditions of aging: Implications for cognitive health[J]. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, 2012,2012:1-8.
【8】ABU SAMAH N H, HEARD C M. Topically applied KTTKS: A review[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011,33(6):483-490.
【9】WATSON R E B, OGDEN S, COTTERELL L F, et al. A cosmetic ‘anti-ageing’ product improves photoaged skin: A double-blind, randomized controlled trial[J]. British Journal of Dermatology, 2009,161(2):419-426.
【10】HAHN H J, JUNG H J, SCHRAMMEK-DRUSIOS M C, et al. Instrumental evaluation of anti-aging effects of cosmetic formulations containing palmitoyl peptides, Silybum marianum seed oil, vitamin E and other functional ingredients on aged human skin[J]. Experimental and Therapeutic Medicine, 2016,12(2):1171-1176.
【11】JOHNSON W, BERGFELD W F, BELSITO D V, et al. Safety assessment of tripeptide-1, hexapeptide-12, their metal salts and fatty acyl derivatives,and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 as used in cosmetics[J]. International Journal of Toxicology, 2018,37(suppl 3):90-102.
【12】AMIRLAK B, MAHEDIA M, SHAH N. A clinical evaluation of efficacy and safety of hyaluronan sponge with vitamin C versus placebo for scar reduction[J]. Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery-Global Open, DOI:10.1097/gox.0000000000000734.
【13】高雅倩,唐健,王志勇,等.棕榈酰三肽-5皮肤美白功效及机制研究[J].日用化学工业, 2018,48(3):166-171.
【14】MACIÀ A, MOTILVA M J, ROMERO M P, et al. Improved liquid-chromatography tandem mass spectrometry method for the determination of the bioactive dipeptides,carnosine and anserine: Application to analysis in chicken broth[J]. Talanta, 2012,93:293-300.
【15】CHIRITA R I, CHAIMBAULT P, ARCHAMBAULT J C, et al. Development of a LC-MS/MS method to monitor palmitoyl peptides content in anti-wrinkle cosmetics[J]. Analytica Chimica Acta, 2009,641(1/2):95-100.
【16】GIANNAKOU M, VARVARESOU A, KIRIAZOPOULOS E, et al. Quantification of oligopeptide-20 and oligopeptide-24 in cosmetic creams using hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography with electrospray ionization mass spectrometry[J]. Separation Science Plus, 2018,1(3):159-167.
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